'I wanted to create the female version of a man’s suit': how Roland Mouret’s Galaxy dress took over the world

One the most famous dresses of this century, it was worn by royalty and A-list celebrities in the noughties. Its latest fans are Maga women. Here, the designer, and former mentor to Victoria Beckham, reveals the story behind it

'I wanted to create the female version of a man’s suit': how Roland Mouret’s Galaxy dress took over the world

TL;DR

  • The Roland Mouret Galaxy dress, launched in 1998, became an iconic fashion item due to its distinctive design featuring an industrial zip.
  • Mouret's design philosophy was influenced by learning that extending a seam didn't increase production costs, leading him to focus on dresses as signature pieces.
  • The dress was embraced by celebrities like Beyoncé, Halle Berry, and Victoria Beckham, helping to define the fashion of the late 90s and early 2000s.
  • Mouret aimed to create the female version of a man's suit, emphasizing equality and carnal experience through its design, particularly its fastening.
  • While popular, the dress's zip was sometimes removed for practical reasons by figures like Catherine, Princess of Wales, and the fictional Claire Underwood.
  • The dress's silhouette has been noted as being echoed in the style of 'Maga women' and figures in the Trump administration, a phenomenon Mouret views as a reflection of current sociopolitics.
  • Mouret's brand went into administration in 2021, and he no longer leads it, now identifying as a queer artist.
  • The Galaxy dress, initially costing £1,750, is now available for around £200 on resale sites, signifying its transition into fashion history.