'I wanted to create the female version of a man’s suit': how Roland Mouret’s Galaxy dress took over the world
One the most famous dresses of this century, it was worn by royalty and A-list celebrities in the noughties. Its latest fans are Maga women. Here, the designer, and former mentor to Victoria Beckham, reveals the story behind it

TL;DR
- The Roland Mouret Galaxy dress, launched in 1998, became an iconic fashion item due to its distinctive design featuring an industrial zip.
- Mouret's design philosophy was influenced by learning that extending a seam didn't increase production costs, leading him to focus on dresses as signature pieces.
- The dress was embraced by celebrities like Beyoncé, Halle Berry, and Victoria Beckham, helping to define the fashion of the late 90s and early 2000s.
- Mouret aimed to create the female version of a man's suit, emphasizing equality and carnal experience through its design, particularly its fastening.
- While popular, the dress's zip was sometimes removed for practical reasons by figures like Catherine, Princess of Wales, and the fictional Claire Underwood.
- The dress's silhouette has been noted as being echoed in the style of 'Maga women' and figures in the Trump administration, a phenomenon Mouret views as a reflection of current sociopolitics.
- Mouret's brand went into administration in 2021, and he no longer leads it, now identifying as a queer artist.
- The Galaxy dress, initially costing £1,750, is now available for around £200 on resale sites, signifying its transition into fashion history.