No eggs, no potatoes but ‘a lot of imagination’: how Spain cooked in war’s hunger years

Book recreates recipes from period following end of Spanish civil war when people faced food shortages

No eggs, no potatoes but ‘a lot of imagination’: how Spain cooked in war’s hunger years

TL;DR

  • Berta Álvarez Acal's book "Wartime Recipes" compiles dishes from Spain's post-civil war hunger years (1939-1952).
  • Ingredients like bread and onion were used to substitute for eggs and potatoes in dishes such as tortilla de patatas.
  • "Fried squid without squid" used deep-fried onion rings, and "wartime hake" was salt cod.
  • The book was inspired by Álvarez's great-aunt's recipes and research into historical sources like Ignacio Doménech.
  • Historical accounts suggest around 200,000 people died of starvation between 1939 and 1942 in Spain.
  • Food shortages were severe, particularly in cities like Madrid, Barcelona, and Valencia, with produce fed to livestock sometimes used for human consumption.
  • The book is also a homage to the resilient generation that lived through these difficult times.
  • Some recreated dishes were surprisingly delicious, while others were less successful.